Alex’s dining room is probably the town’s most sumptuous intersection of old and new Las Vegas: Bugsy Siegel would feel right at home descending the grandiose staircase into this realm of textured woods, sweeping drapes and creamy furnishings.
So would Paris Hilton. Chef Alessandro “Alex” Stratta’s cooking traipses through French, Italian and New American cuisines with a warmth that keeps pace with the surroundings. He serves carrot salad and carrot vinaigrette with foie gras au torchon, an outside-the-box combination that works.
Crispy frog legs are an unusual menu mainstay (and, yes, the tastes-like-chicken analogy applies). White beans, garlic confit and pancetta give the morsels a Provençal twist.
And what a pleasure to see so many interesting fish choices beyond the typical salmon and tuna: John Dory, roasted wild turbot, crispy loup de mer in lobster broth.
Pastry chef Jenifer Witte knows how to incorporate a hint of Americana into the finale. Almond cream, waferlike walnut crisp and sour cream ice cream enhance caramelized apples. Walnut toffee cream adds depth to both spicy gingerbread and wonderfully simple roasted pear.
Service at Alex is an accommodating whirlwind. The sommeliers have wit, the servers practically read minds, and the hosts and hostesses help you into your coat and graciously hold the doors open, making you wish you’d lingered in this parallel universe of Hello Dolly! hospitality a little longer.
Wynn Las Vegas,
3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South;
702-770-7000; www.wynnlasvegas.com
Article by: Bill Addison / Restaurant Critic – Dallasnews.com
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